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Wade spent the night before at the house so we could get an early start in
the morning, which we did. I am definitely getting more organized with each
camping trip I make. I had bought several things from Wal-Mart before hand,
including a fluorescent lantern and a terrific plastic box to hold my camp stove
and kitchen implements. I was very pleased with myself, because I had gone into
the store with no measurements and come out with this box into which the Coleman
stove fit perfectly. I now plan to get a few more of these boxes for
other camping gear, which I think will simplify packing the car down to a few
minutes' chore each Friday night.
I had been agonizing over where to go that would best fulfill Wade's wish.
None of the places I'd previously visited in Arizona were really "isolated"
though most were, to some extent, remote. I narrowed the list down to two
possibilities: Salt River Warm Springs in the White Mountain Apache Reservation,
and Workman Creek in the Sierra Ancha Wilderness. The latter won out due to the
monsoon rains that fall this time of year, which make the road to Salt River
Warm Springs impassible, even for a four-wheel drive vehicle.
Wade and I left the house about 10 am and headed for Globe on US 60. It's a
beautiful drive in itself but I didn't take pictures because I am saving that
stretch for when I get my good camera back from my daughter, Karen, who is on
vacation in Virginia for a couple of weeks. On this trip I would be using my
cell phone for picture-taking.
In Globe we stopped for a snack at Taco Bell and then headed north on the
Globe-Young Highway, also known as AZ-288. This road is not much used, since
presumably the only travelers on it would be from Globe heading to Young, or
vice versa. In fact, it is so little used that the biggest bridge on it
can accommodate only a single lane of traffic. That bridge crosses the
mid-section of the Salt River, just before it pours into Roosevelt Lake.

Wade had more than once mentioned he hoped it would rain on the trip,
as he loved the sound of rain on the tent and, in fact, enjoyed running
in the rain. This was one of the reasons I was happy to go with him: Not many
people appreciate that apparently less-than-perfect weather, can in fact be
perfect. So, as we entered the mountains east of Roosevelt Lake, the
towering cumulous and otherwise dramatic skies did not dismay us.

As I've seen all summer, Arizona this year is stunningly lush, with unusually
green vegetation choking the normally-exposed rock and softening the harsh look
of the place that people usually associate with this state.

We were following the instructions of my GPS, which were pretty good except
at one point, where it made us go off the pavement and onto a rather
sketchy-looking primitive track. We drove on it for about 50 yards, then (by
instruction) took a very sharp right turn...and found ourselves back on
the pavement, just a few yards from where we'd left! I think it's because the
GPS map is out-of-date in some places, and AZ-288 was only recently paved.
Before it was paved, this little side trip may in fact have been the faster
way to go.
Eventually the pavement did run out on AZ-288, too, as the road prepared to
wind ever higher into the mountains.

Finally, rounding a switchback, we were treated to an awesome view of
Roosevelt Lake before diving into the wilderness.

"Sierra Ancha" means broad mountain in Spanish. It's actually a
range of mountains that transition from the lowland deserts of southern
Arizona and the Colorado Plateau of northeastern Arizona. The Sierra Ancha
Wilderness is part of the Tonto National Forest, a protected area on the eastern
flank of the range encompassing a number of high peaks and deep canyons.
The last 14 miles or so of our trip in, on Forest Road 487, was slow going. I had to engage
my four-wheel-drive to keep on the road, which was composed of gravel, rock,
dirt, and mud.
We passed several primitive campgrounds along the way, with pit toilets. But there were
already campers there, and we wanted "isolation". So we drove on. Finally, about
four miles past Workman Creek Falls, we found an undeveloped campsite at
the Moody trailhead. There was room for one tent and plenty of parking for
hikers, but none was used.

Because it was raining off and on, we parked the Expedition very close to the
tent, so we could use the hatchback as shelter for keeping gear dry as we passed
it into the tent. Once we'd set up camp, Wade donned his
CamelBak and went for
a run, leaving me to enjoy the peace and native sounds of the woods.
I didn't see any lightning, but there was frequent, deep-throated rolls of
thunder, sounding almost like organ notes. I haven't heard that since I was in
Grand Canyon. In the Canyon, the notes are formed when canyon corridors
emphasize some frequencies over others. Even though I wasn't in a canyon,
I had to assume that canyons nearby were causing the same effect.
I don't run. I don't like to run. But I do admire people who do. Once the
rain stopped, I went for a very slow, reflective stroll in the opposite
direction. The first thing I found, just a few dozen yards further up the road,
was a cabin that belonged to the US Forest Service. It was locked, of course;
but hidden from the road by trees was an outhouse. The Sierra Ancha Wilderness
is a pack-it-in-pack-it-out kind of place. If you've got to go to the toilet,
you need to go into "Double-Doody"-type
disposal bags, which are not any more fun to use than they sound. We had the
bags, but it was nice to know we wouldn't need to use them.
The lushness was the single most striking feature of the section. We get so
used to desert in the Phoenix area that it's easy to forget there are Ponderosa
pine forests such a short distance away.

I hiked near the summit of the mountain we were on, and it opened up
slightly--but the vegetation was still exuberant. The Coon Creek Fire of 2000
had "destroyed" almost 10,000 acres before it was put out a couple of weeks
after it was reported. There are still signs of that fire: charred tree trunks,
many of them fallen, and new meadows where none previously existed.

But "destroyed", while it's the word invariably used by the TV news
reporters, is totally incorrect. "Recycle" would be better. Fires are nature's
way of keeping a forest healthy. It's more analogous to getting a haircut than
to being shot by an AK-47. Just 8 years after this devastating fire, I saw
evidence everywhere of the forest's renewal, like the baby pine trees I saw
sprouting next to their deceased parent's trunks.

I returned to camp shortly before Wade, who had run 8 miles in the time I
spent strolling about a quarter. We took out the camp chairs and relaxed,
comparing notes, and enjoyed, in companionable silence, the breeze and the
sunbeams shining between the clouds and the sounds of the occasional cricket and
the songs of birds.

There was a conveniently-placed boulder that was perfect for the propane camp
stove. Wade's a vegetarian, so we had Boca Burgers and mixed
vegetables, plus apples, bananas, and trail mix. Wade then did his best to build
a fire in the existing fire pit, with previously-gathered firewood.
Unfortunately, even with a few firesticks, it was too wet to actually burn for
more than a few minutes.
I made a vain attempt to use the neighboring cabin's outhouse. As I sat down,
a curious mouse could not be dissuaded from investigating my shoes. I am not afraid
of mice, but I prefer they leave my shoes alone. Unable to concentrate, I
finally gave up. As Scarlett O'Hara used to say, "Tomorrow is another day!"
It was about 10 pm that we brushed our respective teeth, dumped the water on
the sudden ashes of the almost-fire, and went to bed where the quiet was only
occasionally punctuated by the splatter of errant raindrops.
In the morning, we were awakened to an incessant droning, which turned out to
come from a swarm of bees that had arrived to celebrate our camp. We'd only seen
one or two bees the day before, but apparently they had flown home and told
their friends, "Hey, guess what we found!" They were thick between
the back of the car and the tent. I was still too sleepy to get up, but Wade
went out to heat some water and they buzzed about him like paparazzi around
Angelina Jolie adopting another baby. I had brought some eggs to make for breakfast, but we decided that
cooking in the swarm would probably be counter-productive. Besides, Wade had
wanted to get home on the early side of afternoon. So we decided to strike camp, but carefully,
to avoid trapping a bee in the tent or in the car.
One at a time, I handed items from the tent to Wade, who then opened a car
door and slipped them inside. The tent, of course, went last. The bees seemed
disinterested in us but utterly fascinated with my rear bumper. In a
surprisingly short amount of time, we had camp struck and the SUV loaded.
We surveyed the campsite. "I am so over those bees," Wade
observed.
The return trip, in morning light, was as spectacular, yet different, as the
trip up had been.

In Globe, we stopped at a place called Jerry's Restaurant. I usually like to
go to non-chain places, happy to spend money I suspect will actually make it to
(in this case) Jerry. However, the food was desperately average, with tasteless
eggs and a waitress who insisted the margarine she brought us was "real butter."
Wade gave me the bacon that came with his meal, and I will say it was pretty
good.
So we got home before noon, which left time for Michael and I to take Zachary
to see Journey To The Center Of The Earth 3-D.
Wade did agree to make another trip some time in the future, so hopefully he
had as good a time as I.
But maybe without the bees.
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